
Although the written history of man's presence at
Priest Lake did not begin until the mid-1800s, there is evidence
of human presence in the area soon after glaciation receded and vegetation
began - approximately 10,000 years ago. Historically, the Kalispel
and Kootenai Indian tribes used the Priest Lake area as one of their
food gathering areas: fish were easily taken, game was plentiful
and berries were abundant. Fish were smoked and pemmican - a combination
of dried venison, bear, or deer tallow and kinnikinnick berries -
was prepared. Traces of their visits are evident from ancient rock
art and rare finds of arrowheads along beaches.
Euroamericans
arrived in this region in the early 1800's. They came as fur trappers
and established trade with the Kalispel tribe. In the 1840's, the Jesuits
entered
the area, establishing missions as close to Priest Lake as the eastern
shore of the Pend Oreille River, and they even established a forward
base camp in the Kalispell Bay area. Father Peter DeSmet, a Jesuit priest,
spent
considerable time in the immediate Priest Lake area during the period
1844-1846. Although the Native American tribes in this area had called
the lake "Kaniksu",
Father DeSmet named the lake "Roothaan Lake" in honor of his
Jesuit superior in Rome. The name Roothaan Lake obviously didn't stick
as it was again designated as Kaniksu Lake on an 1865 map prepared by Captain
John Mullan. The Indian word "Kaniksu" is believed to be the
English equivalent to "black robe" and from that reference,
the name gradually evolved from Kaniksu to Priest Lake.
The
discovery of gold in British Columbia in the 1860's brought thousands of
miners traveling through northern Idaho. Some remained in the Pend Oreille
region and established many of the small communities that still exist today.
By the 1890's, mineral exploration had expanded to the Priest Lake area,
although none of the mines produced significant returns.
In the 1880's, the Northern Pacific Railroad linked northern Idaho to the
rest of the nation. Construction of the Great Northern Railroad in 1890
led to a depot on the Pend Oreille River near its confluence with Priest
River. Here the community of Priest River began to develop and grow. A
few settlers went north to build homestead cabins along the shore of Priest
Lake. By the turn of the century, a small settlement was established at
Coolin. A road linked the town of Priest River to Coolin, but other areas
of the lake were accessible only by boat or trail.
The
rail transportation boom in the late 1800's provided access to markets
that needed forest products. Government and industry surveys had recorded
the abundance of large stands of timber in the Priest Lake area. Lumber
companies, such as Weyerhauser and Humbird, purchased land and began
logging operations. Railroad spurs, such as the narrow gauge railroad
constructed
in the Kalispell Bay area, flumes and splash dams were built to move
logs down major tributaries to the lake. Logs were transported across
the lake
to the outlet, and floated down Priest River to the lumber mills located
along the Pend Oreille River. The first recorded log drive was in 1901
and they continued until 1950. In that year, the first Priest Lake Outlet
Dam was constructed. The largest of the log drives took place in 1931
when 50,000 cedar poles and 125 million board feet of logs were "herded" down
the river by the long gone, but not forgotten, "river pigs".
National
concern over conservation of natural resources led to the Forest Reserve
Act of 1891, under which the Priest River Forest Reserve was established
in 1897. This forest reserve subsequently evolved into the Kaniksu National
Forest - which has been recently incorporated into the Panhandle National
Forest system. Most of the area on the east side of Priest Lake was gradually
consolidated into State of Idaho lands beginning after Idaho's entry
into statehood in 1890. In conjunction with statehood, Idaho received
land grants
for Sections 16 & 36 of each Township within the newly created state.
Subsequently, beginning in 1917, the state and the federal government began "in
lieu of" land agreements that gave Idaho tracts of contiguous land on
the east side of the lake in lieu of the originally granted sections.
This
process continued into the late 1920's. In 1950 these state lands to
the east of Priest Lake were designated as Priest Lake State Forest.
Later,
in the 1980's, the State executed land exchanges with private companies
that added nearly 13,000 acres to the state forest and resulted in its
present boundaries.
With
the advent of the Forest Homestead Act of 1906, more families began to
settle in the area. Shortly thereafter, schools were opened at Nordman,
Coolin, Squaw Valley and Lamb Creek. The Coolin Civic Center and Priest
Lake Library occupy two of these original school buildings. It took pioneers
with dedication, and a spirit of adventure coupled with a love of nature
to successfully settle the Priest Lake area. That character and spirit
remains within those who presently call Priest Lake "home". A
good example of these qualities is one early schoolteacher's description
of her trip to Nordman. She tells of the train trip to Priest River, then
a horse drawn stage to Coolin with a change of horses at the Halfway House
just south of Jack Pine Flats on the only road to the lake. She stayed
overnight at the Northern Hotel (built by the Great Northern Railroad Company,
and remains today as the Old Northern Inn B&B) in Coolin. The next
day, she was transported by rowboat from Coolin to Nordman. Such were
the rigors of travel in the early 1900's. Today the same trip takes less
than
an hour!
Steamboats
also played a major role in the early day transportation requirements
of the area. From herding logs on the lake, to mail and "grub" deliveries
from Leonard Paul Store to the early settlers, these workhorse boats
are an important piece of Priest Lake history. When the lake froze over,
dog
sleds were used to transport goods. Early homesteaders used ice blocks
cut from the lake for their refrigeration needs in the summer. Blocks
were cut and stored in icehouses located at present day Elkin's Resort,
Coolin
and Ledgewood Bay.
In the 1920's, a bit of Hollywood came to the
lake. Renowned silent film actress and screenwriter, Nell Shipman, established
a film production camp on Mosquito Bay (present day Lionhead Unit, Priest
Lake State Park). Miss Shipman, her crew and a menagerie of more than
70 animals, produced only a few short films while at Priest Lake. Within
a
couple of years, the severe winter weather, often present at the far
north end of the lake, took its toll and the enterprise was abandoned.
In
the 1930's several Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) camps were established
in Kaniksu National Forest. CCC programs were established for a variety
of purposes that included forest fire fighting; combating forest disease
infestations; building roads, bridges and trails; planting tree seedlings;
and thinning forest stands. All of this for $30 a month pay!!
Today, aside from timber operations, the basin's primary attraction revolves
around vacation homes and recreational tourism. Vacationers have been coming
to Priest Lake since the early 1900's. Lake resort facilities date back
to at least 1914 with a lodge on Mosquito Bay. Today's resorts have all
the modern conveniences expected at a first class resort area, but without
the crowds, traffic and costs associated with other resort locations.
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